Confirming Originality

The First SEIKO World Time

Model No. 6217-7000

These watches are now 60 years old, and many examples have been restored or pieced back together from parts. Dials, bezels, crowns and hand sets from later series can be (and have been) fitted to this watch.

Here are some things to verify when considering the originality of a 6217-7000 from 1964.

The Movement


This watch is powered by the calibre 6217A, a 17 jewel automatic beating at 2.5Hz / 18,000 bhp. The 6217A is one of a series of movements based on the calibre 603, originally introduced in 1960. These 62XX movements were used in everything from this World Time to the Grand Seikos of the day.

This specific calibre 6217A is perhaps better known as the heart and soul of the iconic 62MAS diver. Nonetheless, this is the watch it was originally made for, and introduced in.

6217A is the correct movement for all 6217-7000.
View of the movement with snap of case back removed, August 1964 example
Dial side of movement with dial and hands removed while servicing
Back side of movement while servicing
Disassembled pieces ready for cleaning
Inside case back of an August 1964 example
Alternate Inside case back, Daini Seikosha Co., December 1967 example
Another shot of the movement after servicing, showing the placement of the 6217A notation, August 1964.
Alternate movement, Daini Seikosha Co., December 1967 example

The Dial and Hands


First the handset. The hour, minute and second hands are tapered to a point. Hour and minute hands have a ridge line down the middle. They have no lume. The GMT Hand is discussed in more detail further on. It is black on silver dials and copper/gold colored on black dials.

The dials are either silver with a distinct linen texture or black with a radial sunburst pattern. Each of the two dials appears in two variations of dial code. The original dial code of MADE IN | JAPAN is by far the most common. Later in the series we also see a dial code JAPAN | 6217-7000TAD.

NOTE: "|" indicates the 6-o'clock marker that separates the dial code into two parts.

The silver linen dial, MADE IN JAPAN
The silver linen dial, JAPAN | 6217-7000TAD
The black sunburst dial, MADE IN JAPAN
The black sunburst dial, JAPAN | 6217-7000TAD

Despite the use of "T" in some of the dial codes, which is commonly used to indicate the use of Tritium lume in Swiss watches, there is no lume on the dial or hands of this watch. Instead, the "T" used on vintage Seiko dials like this one indicates that the dial was manufactured in the "Hamazawa Kogyo Chino Plant".

Note the difference in the 24-hour ring coloring on the two black dial examples above. It is unclear if these dials are the same color, one being faded, or in fact two intentionally different production colors. It is also possible that the 6217-7000TAD dials are aftermarket or service dials - but just as likely they are in fact originals.

Also note: on MADE IN JAPAN dials, there should be a 6217-7000T mark at 6-o'clock, underneath the bezel. You would have to remove the dial from the case for this check. While you are there notice the v-shaped knotch at 4:30 on edge of the dial - pointing at the 9 on the 24-hour ring.

MADE IN JAPAN, with 6217-7000T hidden under bezel at 6-o'clock
V-shaped knotch at 9 marker on 24-hour ring (hard to see on this one)
Dial from August 1964, Likely sold as new in JDM
JAPAN | 6217-7000TAD
V-shaped knotch at 9 marker on 24-hour ring
Dial from August 1964, Confirmed sold as new in USA

The GMT Hand


All watches have either a black or copper-toned 24 hour (GMT) hand. In earlier production models, this hand is thicker at the center of the dial and tapered to the arrow. In later production examples this hand is thin and of the same thickness from dial center to the arrow.

The following three examples are believed to be original and on the correct dial.

The original copper/gold toned, tapered GMT Hand, found on black dials
The original black tapered GMT hand, found on silver dials
The updated thin profile GMT Hand in black, found on some later production silver dials

There are also several examples of red colored GMT hands across both dial colors. The first cataloged example appears with a July 1964 production date. It is not clear if these are original parts, though it seems likely that at least the thin red hand is original. If so, it is still unclear where and when they were originally used, and which model in the series they belongs to, but there is a growing set of data that points to the use of this thin red GMT hand primarily in the 1967 reproduction, from August through December.

This example has lumed hands, possibly transplanted from a 6217-7010.
The thin profile GMT Hand in red is found on several examples. It is unclear if this is an original part.
A tapered GMT Hand in red, so far only found on two examples. It is unclear if this is an original part.

Bezel


The bezel in this series came in black and silver. Black bezels belong on black dials, silver bezels on silver dials.

The silver bezel has black text on both the inner and outer list of city names. Timezone markers are the DL (International Date Line Indicator) are in red.

The black bezel has white wording on both the inner and outer list of city names. Timezone markers are the DL (International Date Line Indicator) are in blue.

Correct and original Silver bezel
Correct and original Black Bezel

Follow the link below for a more detailed look at the evolution of the cities bezel:

The Date Wheel


The date wheel on the 6217-7000 is also used on the 6217-7010 models. The wheel is white with all black numbers. Later 6117 models included a different date wheel font.

Follow the link below for a more detailed look at the evolution of the date wheel:

Here is the entire date wheel
You can toggle this image to display a specific date for easy comparison. Click here to spin the date wheel forward, click here spin the date back

The Crown


The crown on this model is interchangeable with later models, and it is not uncommon to see sales listings with a mismatched crown. The following photos show the only correct and original crown for the 6217-7000. SEIKO part number 60W01NS.

The correct, original crown
The crown and stem original replacement parts
The crown top and bottom
The crown side profile

NOTE: This crown was also used on the SEIKO SilverWave Reference 6601-7990.

Original Bracelets (and a strap)


Based on ad and catalog scans, there are at least two original bracelets and one leather strap originally sold on this series.

The original "Tank Tread" bracelet is by far the most common.
The "Tank Tread" Bracelet. The inner links are brushed, the outer links are polished
The "Qbert" bracelet is also seen on later series.
The "Qbert" bracelet.
SEIKO also offered this watch on an alligator leather strap.

Follow the link below for a small archive of these and other ad and catalog scans:



The "Tank Tread" bracelet was cut to size, with a small margin for adjustment in the clasp. The bracelet itself is seen on other models. Original examples for this watch include matching end links, have an unsigned clasp, and tend to lay flat.

Note: if you do find and acquire a watch with the "Tank Tread" bracelet – there is a chance it will not fit your wrist.

The original bracelet with correct clasp. The inner links are brushed, the outer links are polished. Note the bracelet lays near flat.
Side profile of the bracelet showing the 5 micro adjustment positions on the clasp
Correct end links match the bracelet pattern.
The correct clasp
18-8 STAINLESS STEEL T
End links
End links
Bracelet side profile
Bracelet and Clasp
Bracelet and Clasp
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