Confirming Originality

These watches are now 59 years old, and many examples have been restored or pieced back together from parts. Dials, bezels, crowns and hand sets from later series can be (and have been) fitted to this watch.

Here are some things to verify when considering the originality of a 6217-7000 from 1964.

The Movement

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This watch is powered by the calibre 6217A, a 17 jewel automatic beating at 2.5Hz / 18,000 bhp. The 6217A is one of a series of movements based on the calibre 603, originally introduced in 1960. These 62XX movements were used in everything from this World Time to the Grand Seikos of the day.

This specific calibre 6217A is perhaps better known as the heart and soul of the iconic 62MAS diver. Nonetheless, this is the watch it was originally made for, and introduced in.

The Dial and Hands

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First the handset. The hour, minute and second hands are tapered to a point. Hour and minute hands have a ridge line down the middle. They have no lume. The GMT Hand is discussed in more detail further on. It is black on silver dials and copper/gold colored on black dials.

The dials are either silver with a distinct linen texture or black with a radial sunburst pattern. Each of the two dials appears in two variations of dial code. The original dial code of MADE IN | JAPAN is by far the most common. Later in the series we also see a dial code JAPAN | 6217-7000TAD.

NOTE: "|" indicates the 6-o'clock marker that separates the dial code into two parts.

Despite the use of "T" in some of the dial codes, which is commonly used to indicate the use of Tritium lume in Swiss watches, there is no lume on the dial or hands of this watch. This code likely refers to the method by which the dial indices are applied.

Note the difference in the 24-hour ring coloring on the two black dial examples above. It is unclear if these dials are the same color, one being faded, or in fact two intentionally different production colors. It is also possible that the 6217-7000TAD dials are aftermarket or service dials - but just as likely they are in fact originals.

Also note: on MADE IN JAPAN dials, there should be a 6217-7000T mark at 6-o'clock, underneath the bezel. You would have to remove the dial from the case for this check. While you are there notice the v-shaped knotch at 4:30 on edge of the dial - pointing at the 9 on the 24-hour ring.

The GMT Hand

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All watches have either a black or copper-toned 24 hour (GMT) hand. In earlier production models, this hand is thicker at the center of the dial and tapered to the arrow. In later production examples this hand is thin and of the same thickness from dial center to the arrow.

The following three examples are believed to be original and on the correct dial.

One watch with a thin copper/gold GMT hand has been cataloged. It is from December 1967, and has incorrect lumed hour hand (likely from a 6117-6410 Navigator). More data is required to confirm this as an original or after-market part.

There are also several examples of red colored GMT hands across both dial colors. The first cataloged example appears with a July 1964 production date. It is not clear if these are original parts, though it seems likely that at least the thin red hand is original. If so, it is still unclear where and when they were originally used, and which model in the series they belongs to, but there is a growing set of data that points to the use of this thin red GMT hand primarily in the 1967 reproduction, from August through December.

Bezel

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The bezel in this series came in black and silver. Black bezels belong on black dials, silver bezels on silver dials.

The silver bezel has black text on both the inner and outer list of city names. Timezone markers are the DL (International Date Line Indicator) are in red.

The black bezel has white wording on both the inner and outer list of city names. Timezone markers are the DL (International Date Line Indicator) are in blue.

Follow the link below for a more detailed look at the evolution of the cities bezel:

Article: Changes to the Reference Cities over the Years

The Date Wheel

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The date wheel on the 6217-7000 is also used on the 6217-7010 models. The wheel is white with all black numbers. Later 6117 models included a different date wheel font.

Follow the link below for a more detailed look at the evolution of the date wheel:

Article: The Date Wheel - Changes over the Years

The Crown

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The crown on this model is interchangeable with later models, and it is not uncommon to see sales listings with a mismatched crown. The following photos show the only correct and original crown for the 6217-7000. SEIKO part number 60W01NS.

NOTE: This crown was also used on the SEIKO SilverWave Reference 6601-7990.

Original Bracelets (and a strap)

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Based on ad and catalog scans, there are at least two original bracelets and one leather strap originally sold on this series.

Follow the link below for a small archive of these and other ad and catalog scans:

Article: 6217 Ad Scans

The "Tank Tread" bracelet was cut to size, with a small margin for adjustment in the clasp. The bracelet itself is seen on other models. Original examples for this watch include matching end links, have an unsigned clasp, and tend to lay flat.

Note: if you do find and acquire a watch with the "Tank Tread" bracelet – there is a chance it will not fit your wrist.

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